Journal Entry - May 22, 2005 Adios Mexico

Author: Scott and Pam

Please excuse the poor formatting of the following journal entry. Much of the entry is in list format, but our publishing software puts all journal entries into a single paragraph format. We have attempted to compensate for this, but the end product is still a little difficult to read.

Now that Mexico is over 1500 miles astern and we have had some time to reflect on our experiences we wanted to share some of our fondest memories and impressions of the culture. While cruising in Mexico for nearly six months we made the following landfalls, Turtle Bay, Cabo San Lucas, Los Frailes, Bahia de los Muertos, La Paz, Isla Isabela, Puerto Vallarta, Guadalajara (road trip) Tenecatita, Ixtapa, Zihautanejo, Barra de Navidad and finally Nuevo Vallarta. Rising to the top of the list of great experiences while cruising in Mexico was the lifelong friendship we developed with Abe and Amy Oros, also known as A Squared. We could not have asked for better friends to share the experiences of breaking into the adventure of the cruising life. We ate well in Mexico and we are missing the food already. Some of our favorites were:

Best Cheeseburger – Paradise Found, La Paz: Best Ice cream – La Fuente, La Paz: Favorite Authentic Dish - Molcajetes – Alcatraz, Barra de Navidad: Best Sushi – Tsunami, Puerto Vallarta : Best Steak – Ruth Chris Steakhouse, Cabo San Lucas: Second Best Steak – Rick’s Bar, Zihautanejo : Best Chicken Taca – Paradise Found, La Paz: Best Guacamole – Pipi’s, Puerto Vallarta: Strongest Margarita – Hotel in Los Frailes: Best Margarita – Vallarta Yacht Club, Nuevo Vallarta: Favorite Coffee Shop & Internet Café – Theory Café, Cabo San Lucas: Best Street Taco – Super Taco, La Paz: Best Caesar Salad – Bogart’s Restaurant, Ixtapa: Worst Wine – 20 pesos ($1.90) Boxed wine from Commercial Mexicana: Best Breakfast – Mr. Cream, Puerto Vallarta : Favorite Restaurant – Kaiser Maxamillions, Puerto Vallarta : Best Bar – Rick’s Bar, Zihautanejo: Best Grocery Store for provisions – Commercial Mexicana, Zihautanejo

Some of our favorite experiences while cruising in Mexico were: Favorite Outing – Jungle River Trip, Rio de Iguana in Tenecatita: Best Beach – Tenecatita: Best Sail – Los Muertos to Isla Isabela, surfed along at a high of 11.8 knots: Favorite Anchorage – Bahia de los Muertos: Best Marina – Paradise Village Marina, Nuevo Vallarta Least Favorite Cultural Experience – Bullfights in Puerto Vallarta: Most Interesting Cultural Experience – The Celebration for Our Lady of Guadalupe (Festival lasted all night), La Paz

While traveling in Mexico we noted a few interesting observations about the culture, among them were: Only men drive taxis and the rates are fixed for each destination, usually no surprises (always good to ask the rate before getting in): Women rarely wait tables: Disability is almost never discussed: La Paz and Guadalajara had the best wheelchair ramps and accessibility, the rest of Mexico had narrow to no wheelchair ramps and unbelievably uneven sidewalks, it is a wonder we did not break our neck or something:: In Puerto Vallarta left turns are made by starting in the far right lane, scary: Buses range from 4 to 12 pesos (.40 - $1.20) and we think they may be privately owned. They all drive with the front door open and barely stop when it is time to get off. However we found it to be an efficient way to get around: Children work as young as eight years old. At the grocery store there is usually a line of boys and girls waiting to take their turn to help bag your groceries and help you out of the store. Once outside the store there are more boys to help you get a taxi and transfer your groceries. Upon arriving at some destinations in a taxi, young boys will open your cab door and offer you a hand if you are a woman. We also saw many young boys working in restaurants bussing tables, pouring coffee… Except for in restauranst a tip is expected and paid directly to the one or sometimes more than one that is “helping” you: When you are out and about in the evening in most towns and cities there are always Mariachi musicians or individual street musicians offering to play a song, for a tip of course. It always adds to the festive atmosphere: Overall we saw very little panhandling or for money to just be handed over, almost always if money was requested it was in return for goods or services, this was a welcome change from our experience living in San Francisco: We only did our own laundry when we stayed at the time share. At all laundry mats there is someone who will wash and fold your laundry for usually a dollar more a load then if you did it yourself, who could pass up that deal: At restaurants you have to ask for your check, it is considered impolite to ask you if you are ready for your check. To that end you never feel rushed. Also, the politeness in general was very refreshing. You are always greeted by an acknowledgement of the time of day, asked how you are and please and thank are always used, this is consistent throughout all of Mexico: A couple of food observations: Most of the eggs are sold unrefrigerated. Boxed milk is very prevalent, both of these items made provisioning easier. Scott likes the milk, I have only tried the chocolate. It is very difficult to find mayonnaise not flavored with lime, go figure, we didn’t care for it. You can buy roasted chicken in every supermarket for 45 pesos ($4.50). In the grocery stores there is a much stronger personal service element, all meat, delis and usually a separate cheese counter are staffed and serve you directly, also these people are always wearing surgical masks. Open markets are much different from grocery stores, you can usually find almost anything, including pigs feet with fur, that was gross.

Our most fulfilling experience in Mexico was our visit to the School for the Blind in Guadalajara. One of our primary goals is to learn about services for people who are blind and visually impaired around the world and to share our personal and professional experiences. This visit was enlightening and worthwhile for all involved. We look forward to our next opportunity, wherever that may be.

In general, we found Mexico to be a beautiful country that widely varies in its many micro climates, from scorching dry desert to lush tropical jungles. The people of Mexico are genuine and helpful and very good natured. If ever in true need, you would always find a helping hand. Though poverty is still evident throughout all of Mexico, the total impression is that of a people closing the gaps between classes. Everyone has a cell phone, but you still can’t send a reliable letter. The cruising community is strong with so many lovely places to visit, but the sailing is disappointingly inconsistent.

This journal entry only represents a few of the impressions left behind after our visit to Mexico, and it only scratches the surface of the total experience. We will be submitting follow up journal entries of this type after departing each country.