Author: Scott and Pam
Today feels like it was ten days long. The trip from Los Muertos kept us both up most of the night. We had great wind and traveled most of the way at over 6 knots, but the passage was a little tricky because you have to thread your way through the Lorenzo Channel a five mile wide channel that divides the mainland from Isle and then you make a 90 degree turn to port to enter the La Paz bay while staying clear of shoals on both sides of the boat. Sounds tricky but it turned out to be fairly simple in execution. Another boat (who will remain nameless) actually made the trip on autopilot while the crew watched DVDs in their V-berth with an occasional glance out of the hatch.
It was fun getting the chance to travel with buddy boats. If you recall, we were a little behind the pack during the Baja Ha-Ha and so we did not get the chance to travel in a pack and chat on the radio… We lead the way for most of the trip, but we were finally overtaken by Eleytheria and Amazing Grace as we entered the La Paz bay.
They say that there are two kinds of boats, those that run aground and those that lie about running aground. We considered being the second today, but we are true to our oath to be completely honest in our telling of this tale, and so the truth is we got stuck in the mud as we entered the final channel into downtown La Paz. Those of you who have navigated the channel in Sausalito can appreciate the approach to La Paz. There is a narrow channel that hugs the shore despite miles of open (and very shallow) water in the La Paz bay. As we were just about to enter the channel, squish, we were stuck in the mud. After sailing all night and with just a few final miles to go, we were bummed out. We knew that we were just finishing the tidal cycle and within a few hours the tide would flood enough to free us, but who wants to sit around for others to see. Just then Eleytheria called to see how we were doing, and we sheepishly reported our situation. This is a good example of how helpful the sailing community can be whether you want help or not. With just the slightest mention of being stuck, Amazing Grace overheard the conversation and started seeking assistance for us, and before you knew it there was all kinds of chatter on the local net channel. We wanted to sink the boat and crawl deep in the mud to hide. Fortunately, we were able to switch channels and fend off any further assistance until we could assess whether or not we would need help from the cavalry. Our friends on Eleytheria graciously offered to dinghy out to help us, or at least wait out the tide with us.
Everyone should get stuck harmlessly in the mud now and then, so you can practice all of those techniques for freeing your boat that you learn about when you take sailing lessons or read sailing manuals, today we tried most of these techniques. We actually freed ourselves three times with various techniques just to squish back into a new mud trap. We were finally released from our captivity with the help of a local panga with a monster outboard. The plan was to use a halyard to heel the boat while we drove forward and out of the mud. The plan worked brilliantly and we meekly slunk into La Paz.
Today is Sunday and the marinas were closed. We had to anchor in the “Virtual Marina” which was once a real marina until a hurricane decimated it a few years back. Now you can stay anchored at the Virtual Marina for about three dollars a day, and use their dinghy dock, showers, and other services but there are no slips to tie up to.
Once we were anchored we were anxious to check out La Paz, and we were starving. We got a dinghy ride from Abe and Amy and met John from Amazing Grace and Andrew and Drew from Soy Libre at the Dinghy Dock. Food! We were off on the hunt for food and we sure found it. With complete dumb luck we happened across Rancho Villejo a street café with wonderful smells drifting out onto the street. “Let’s try it” we all agreed.
As I sit here writing this entry, the turmoil of the day has been washed away by the eight scrumptious carne asada tacos that I consumed at Rancho Villejo. The food was excellent and the cervazas were tasty. Our group of six plus one child feasted for less than thirty American dollars.
Tomorrow will be a big day, our first land shower since San Diego. I can hardly wait!
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