Author: Scott
Wow! Today is one of those days that makes you sit back and bask in the satisfaction of what we are doing out here on this voyage. One of our biggest motivators in going to sea was to meet and learn from other blind people throughout the world. Today we had our first South Pacific encounter with fellow blind people and what a great day it was!
The day started out frenzied and never really eased off. The mechanic was due sometime between 0700 and 0900 but due to the language barrier he could have shown up anytime. We also had the local television station scheduled to show up at 0900. The mechanic showed up abound 0800 and we went straight to work trying to resolve the problem with the diesel engine’s temperature gauge. It quickly became obvious the mechanic was not familiar with our instruments but we did manage to locate and test all of the wiring and sensors. We could not find an apparent problem and I think he was suspicious of the gauge itself because he told me to follow him. We rowed the dinghy to the quay and I thought we were just getting a tool, but he gestured for me to get in his pickup truck. Now this was a surprise to me and I hesitated only for a second, though I was shirtless and shoeless dressed only in a pair of dirty shorts. We were off with blaring music playing in his pickup truck and me riding around Papeete half naked. We headed straight to the industrial area and before I knew it we were back to Sopom, the place where I had found the external water pump. He waved for me to follow and I tromped in feeling a little self conscious. They recognized the mechanic immediately and to his surprise they also recognized the naked American as well. The mechanic had no way of knowing that I was a regular in the industrial section. After learning that they did not have the gauge we needed, we were sent on to another store. The second stop was Nauti Sports another of my industrial district haunts, and again the naked American was recognized with the familiarity of a local. No one even seemed to notice I was dressed for a spread in Play Girl, as if customers came in all the time in skimpy shorts. We repeated this process two more times and never managed to find the part. Time was running out and I had to get back to the boat for the media, so I managed to communicate this need and we returned to Tournesol.
Thankfully I made it back before the media arrived and managed to pull some clothes on. I think the mechanic tried to tell me he would keep looking for the part and return in a few hours. Without the slightest break, all of a sudden a van full of blind folks pulled up to the quay and spilled out. “Hello, we are the Sixth Sense Blind Association and we are glad to meet you”, said a friendly Tahitian man. We learned the man making introductions was Roland, the President of the Association. Roland introduced us to his wife Jacqueline, three clients of the association and their driver. As we were making our introductions (including the Tahitian kissy thing) the television crew turned up and the cameras started rolling. Roland introduced himself again for the media and presented us with a beautiful plaque made from mother of pearl, engraved with the association’s name and logo. After all of the introductions were made, the questions began. We each had millions of questions for each other, and we were also anxious to bring everyone aboard for a tour of Tournesol. Pam stayed on the quay with Jacqueline and continued to ask questions while I ferried Roland, the clients, and the television crew over to the boat. Once on Tournesol we toured her inside and out and demonstrated the adaptive technology we use when sailing. The television crew interviewed everyone and asked many relevant and thoughtful questions. I learned that Roland was once a television cameraman for over thirty years, prior to loosing his sight and because he was so active and well connected he was a natural for founding the association. I learned one of the clients had heard our press release read over Radio One, the local radio station, and the association contacted the television station and arranged for the coverage.
Our time on the boat was wonderful and chaotic, and everyone had a great time. Even the dinghy trips on and off the boat were filled with laughter, thrills and chills. As we all got to know each other we learned many tings about living in French Polynesia with a visual impairment. We learned there are approximately 140 registered visually impaired people in French Polynesia, 50 of these are children. Roland believes there are many more people with vision problems but they are not identified. As in Mexico, many families serve as a primary care giver to people with disabilities and often disabled people live a sheltered life at home. Visually impaired people are currently restricted from having a bank account or credit card, because it is believed they can not independently manage their financial affairs. If you loose your vision while living in French Polynesia, you are sent to France for rehabilitation training, and there is only the school for the deaf to provide training for blind children, unfortunately the school is on summer break and we would be unable to visit. Roland explained that diabetes is the most common cause of blindness on the islands. There are currently no guide dog users, though Roland has already made preparations to be the first guide dog user in French Polynesia. The association struggles to get supplies and equipment and most adaptive equipment and aids come from France at exurbanite prices. A basic white cane cost over $60, about three times the price in the United States.
We also had a chance to learn a little about the association’s history. In 1998 after Roland had lost his vision suddenly, he was approached by blind people in the community and asked to found an association for the blind in Tahiti. In an impressive amount of time, the association has grown to serve most of the visually impaired population throughout French Polynesia. The association (3 paid staff) teaches Braille, daily living skills, provides education on diabetes, employment training, and offers sports and recreational opportunities. The group is funded in part by Lion’s Club International, and through support from the French Government. However, the funding for the association may be at risk in future years as French Polynesia moves towards greater independence from France.
While we were all on the boat, the mechanic returned and took the whole scene in stride. With Jacqueline’s assistance translating, Pam was able to learn a little more about the work he had already done on the outboard motor. Apparently he had found some clogged hoses and cleaned the carburetor. He assured us the repairs should get us to New Zealand, but we may need a new carburetor. He also got involved by helping offload folks from the dinghy. With the interviews complete we discussed the possibility of going on a picnic with the members of the association on Monday and agreed we would be in touch before Monday. We were also told the clients wanted to give us some of the special oranges that are only available on the island in July, and that they would return in a while with the oranges. It was clear we had made some great new friends on Tahiti.
With the association off buying oranges we returned to the business of the day. The mechanic informed us he would return again later in the day and I ran off to forage for food while Pam stayed on the boat awaiting a possible visit from the local newspaper who had also expressed an interest in an interview. After a speedy lunch we completed a few boat chores and then the mechanic was back on the scene and ready to take on the temperature gauge again. We were huddled over the engine, probing and inspecting when without notice another television station arrived for an interview. On Tahiti there are only two television stations and now we were to be featured on both. The media focused on the fact we were experiencing an engine problem and had lots of questions, they even interviewed the mechanic. Pam and I were then interviewed and we gave them a similar demonstration of the technology we use when sailing. When the filming was complete we all made our way back over to the quay. The mechanic informed us he could not repair the temperature gauge, but he believed our engine was running sufficiently cool and should be fine for our trip to New Zealand. He refused any further payment and told us to call him from Bora Bora to report on our outboard engine. The television crew also said their goodbyes and Pam and I were left on the quay feeling a little drained.
We rounded out the day by visiting an Italian restaurant that was recommended by Antoni and we were treated to delicious pizza with mussels and hearty lasagna. As we were in the dinghy returning to Tournesol we said hello to the Japanese boat next door and agreed to have them over for a drink on Sunday and they invited us to visit their boat on Saturday. We all said goodnight and we quickly made our way to some much needed sleep
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