Author: Scott
When we awoke on Tuesday morning the rain was still falling as it had all night long. It was one of those “snug as a bug” mornings with a chill in the room, although we were safe in our warm protective cocoon of comfy covers to guard us and hold us pinned to the mattress unwilling to face the bitter morning. But the alarm was insistently demanding our participation in the day and with great regret we peeled away our toasty layers and rejoined humanity at 05:00. We quickly prepared for the day and soon found ourselves downstairs where a cup of delectable steaming coffee was immediately inserted into my hand, to bring me the rest of the way back to the land of the living and conscious.
This was to be a no fuss kind of departure. We had our coffee, David said farewell to Vicky and then we immediately piled into David’s flashy red Land Cruiser and sped off. We swept in and collected Bob and a few more provisions, then we were officially off for Lightning Ridge, about 800 kilometers to the northwest.
Once on the road the commentary began and remained throughout the trip. Bob and David were determined to make sure we saw everything despite our vision impairment. We wound our way through the hill country and into the Hunter Valley, one of Australia’s premiere wine production areas. We made a quick stop at the “Golden Arches” for the morning meal, apparently this is a tradition for the boys heading up to Lightning Ridge. Soon we were off again!
Bob and David have been friends for many years and they share that bond that sometimes forms between good mates. It might only take a word or two and the other immediately knows what the other is thinking, so when a story was started by one of the two, the other was immediately tuned in and ready to assist in telling the tale with enthusiasm. They loved to share their stories and never seemed to tire of hearing about each other’s adventures. The ride was not only full of information about Australia but as we rode along with the miles melting away, we came to really know each other.
As the day continued the landscape opened before us until we had reached some of the flattest terrain I have ever seen. Bob and David were amazed at the effects of the recent deluge of rain and told us that the landscape had not been this green since the 70s. As we drove on into increasingly desolate country and signs of civilization ebbed, there were always trees. There were trees everywhere eucalyptus trees (also known as gum trees), cypress pines, and many more varieties. I had always pictured the Australian desert as more barren but we learned that Australia was covered in trees, even in the remote outback. Of course we were seeing an exceptionally lush version of the interior of Australia, but one could see that this land was beautiful even if the green had retreated leaving a dustier, more rugged wilderness. And Australia is BIG, real BIG, GIGANTIC! Only twenty-one million people share a space nearly equal to the size of the United States. Even the regression of the roads was fascinating. As we traveled expressways gave way to two lane highways, that then became country roads paved with red asphalt that looked black one way and red the other under a sunny sky. These red roads were finally replaced by dirt roads grated into gentle humps with table drains to allow for rain runoff. Finally the dirt roads gave way to the hard pack roads made with white opal dirt, giving the area an unearthly moon-like landscape.
We sped on through the day, from town to town, until finally we stopped in a small town called Walgett. Walgett would be our last town before reaching the camp and we stopped in at the market to pick up a few final supplies. Just up the road from Walgett we entered the opal fields and drove into the labyrinth of opal dust roads known as Grawin. Grawin is made up of smaller groups of mining claims with names like Glengarry and Sheepyard. To properly visualize Grawin you need to image a mixture of the Martian landscape, a flattened out version of the Appalachians, and the earth portrayed in the Mad Max/Road Warrior trilogy. White dust roads randomly spider web through mountains of opal mullock (overburden dirt created from mining). Hulks of antique excavation equipment, trucks, trailers, and self built hybrid motorized monstrosities dot the surroundings with the occasional car door painted as a makeshift street sign. Grawin is the kind of place that a sleepy little Mexican town with dirt roads and chickens in the street, would consider a remote place.
Somehow Bob and David wound us through this other world of twists and turns and even managed to keep up with the flow of information. We were shown the famous Glengarry Hilton (see the scrapbook), the Sheepyard Pub, old Ned’s place, and finally our campsite.
Bob and David describe their campsite as roughing it with all the comforts and this is precisely accurate. The campsite is made up of a large flat roofed structure, stoutly built of steel posts with a corrugated metal roof. Under which is a trailer (or caravan in Australia), a shower enclosure, and a magnificent fire place built of metal sitting atop a base of cinder blocks. There are two large water tanks that catch the rain from the roof on the structure. There is also a separate shed for the generators, a smaller caravan, and the “Blue Loo with a View” a specially modified construction site outhouse with a “long drop”. Then there are the various vehicles and mining equipment that randomly adorn the site. Each structure has a unique story that can only be properly shared around a roaring campfire with ample time and a bit of grog. Of course there is also a mine shaft dug, although the mine is not operational as the boys are waiting to more fully evolve into mining in their retirement. For now the campsite is a place to escape the city and civilization, a special place for spinning yarns, a place for tinkering with engines and swinging an axe, a place to get away from anything and everything, a very special and yet humble retreat.
As soon as the car doors were open we sprang into action. Provisions were stowed, cobwebs cleaned, dishes washed, sleeping bags unrolled, and in no time we were stoking the raging fire with wood and settled in just in time for our kangaroo visit. It was like the roos were special ordered to appear for Scott and Pam as we struck camp. We were told that we might see some roos and here they were, a pair of gray kangaroos with the stereotypical baby Joey hanging in the mother’s pouch. They quietly stared at us with there deer-like tranquil eyes, posed for pictures, then silently hopped away. Wow - we really are in Australia!!!
Our first dinner was spaghetti bolognaise that David “just threw together” before leaving. We gabbed away into the night around the fire until it was finally time to head back to our little caravan to catch some sleep. What a wonderful first day at Lightning Ridge!
When we awoke on Tuesday morning the rain was still falling as it had all night long. It was one of those “snug as a bug” mornings with a chill in the room, although we were safe in our warm protective cocoon of comfy covers to guard us and hold us pinned to the mattress unwilling to face the bitter morning. But the alarm was insistently demanding our participation in the day and with great regret we peeled away our toasty layers and rejoined humanity at 05:00. We quickly prepared for the day and soon found ourselves downstairs where a cup of delectable steaming coffee was immediately inserted into my hand, to bring me the rest of the way back to the land of the living and conscious.
This was to be a no fuss kind of departure. We had our coffee, David said farewell to Vicky and then we immediately piled into David’s flashy red Land Cruiser and sped off. We swept in and collected Bob and a few more provisions, then we were officially off for Lightning Ridge, about 800 kilometers to the northwest.
Once on the road the commentary began and remained throughout the trip. Bob and David were determined to make sure we saw everything despite our vision impairment. We wound our way through the hill country and into the Hunter Valley, one of Australia’s premiere wine production areas. We made a quick stop at the “Golden Arches” for the morning meal, apparently this is a tradition for the boys heading up to Lightning Ridge. Soon we were off again!
Bob and David have been friends for many years and they share that bond that sometimes forms between good mates. It might only take a word or two and the other immediately knows what the other is thinking, so when a story was started by one of the two, the other was immediately tuned in and ready to assist in telling the tale with enthusiasm. They loved to share their stories and never seemed to tire of hearing about each other’s adventures. The ride was not only full of information about Australia but as we rode along with the miles melting away, we came to really know each other.
As the day continued the landscape opened before us until we had reached some of the flattest terrain I have ever seen. Bob and David were amazed at the effects of the recent deluge of rain and told us that the landscape had not been this green since the 70s. As we drove on into increasingly desolate country and signs of civilization ebbed, there were always trees. There were trees everywhere eucalyptus trees (also known as gum trees), cypress pines, and many more varieties. I had always pictured the Australian desert as more barren but we learned that Australia was covered in trees, even in the remote outback. Of course we were seeing an exceptionally lush version of the interior of Australia, but one could see that this land was beautiful even if the green had retreated leaving a dustier, more rugged wilderness. And Australia is BIG, real BIG, GIGANTIC! Only twenty-one million people share a space nearly equal to the size of the United States. Even the regression of the roads was fascinating. As we traveled expressways gave way to two lane highways, that then became country roads paved with red asphalt that looked black one way and red the other under a sunny sky. These red roads were finally replaced by dirt roads grated into gentle humps with table drains to allow for rain runoff. Finally the dirt roads gave way to the hard pack roads made with white opal dirt, giving the area an unearthly moon-like landscape.
We sped on through the day, from town to town, until finally we stopped in a small town called Walgett. Walgett would be our last town before reaching the camp and we stopped in at the market to pick up a few final supplies. Just up the road from Walgett we entered the opal fields and drove into the labyrinth of opal dust roads known as Grawin. Grawin is made up of smaller groups of mining claims with names like Glengarry and Sheepyard. To properly visualize Grawin you need to image a mixture of the Martian landscape, a flattened out version of the Appalachians, and the earth portrayed in the Mad Max/Road Warrior trilogy. White dust roads randomly spider web through mountains of opal mullock (overburden dirt created from mining). Hulks of antique excavation equipment, trucks, trailers, and self built hybrid motorized monstrosities dot the surroundings with the occasional car door painted as a makeshift street sign. Grawin is the kind of place that a sleepy little Mexican town with dirt roads and chickens in the street, would consider a remote place.
Somehow Bob and David wound us through this other world of twists and turns and even managed to keep up with the flow of information. We were shown the famous Glengarry Hilton (see the scrapbook), the Sheepyard Pub, old Ned’s place, and finally our campsite.
Bob and David describe their campsite as roughing it with all the comforts and this is precisely accurate. The campsite is made up of a large flat roofed structure, stoutly built of steel posts with a corrugated metal roof. Under which is a trailer (or caravan in Australia), a shower enclosure, and a magnificent fire place built of metal sitting atop a base of cinder blocks. There are two large water tanks that catch the rain from the roof on the structure. There is also a separate shed for the generators, a smaller caravan, and the “Blue Loo with a View” a specially modified construction site outhouse with a “long drop”. Then there are the various vehicles and mining equipment that randomly adorn the site. Each structure has a unique story that can only be properly shared around a roaring campfire with ample time and a bit of grog. Of course there is also a mine shaft dug, although the mine is not operational as the boys are waiting to more fully evolve into mining in their retirement. For now the campsite is a place to escape the city and civilization, a special place for spinning yarns, a place for tinkering with engines and swinging an axe, a place to get away from anything and everything, a very special and yet humble retreat.
As soon as the car doors were open we sprang into action. Provisions were stowed, cobwebs cleaned, dishes washed, sleeping bags unrolled, and in no time we were stoking the raging fire with wood and settled in just in time for our kangaroo visit. It was like the roos were special ordered to appear for Scott and Pam as we struck camp. We were told that we might see some roos and here they were, a pair of gray kangaroos with the stereotypical baby Joey hanging in the mother’s pouch. They quietly stared at us with there deer-like tranquil eyes, posed for pictures, then silently hopped away. Wow - we really are in Australia!!!
Our first dinner was spaghetti bolognaise that David “just threw together” before leaving. We gabbed away into the night around the fire until it was finally time to head back to our little caravan to catch some sleep. What a wonderful first day at Lightning Ridge!
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