Author: Pam
Since leaving New Zealand more than a year ago visiting Tanna and the renowned Yasur volcano has been very high on our list of places we were hoping to visit. However, only after hearing about Yasur from other cruisers did seeing an active volcano find its way to my list of things I might like to do in this lifetime. I can't say I had really thought much about standing on the edge of a volcano while it spews molten rock and ash (possibly in my direction) before adding it to our list of places we intended to sail to.
We arrived in Port Resolution at 0900 and dropped the anchor in what is now our ninth country we will have the privilege of visiting. We are flying our Vanuatu courtesy flag and the yellow Q (quarantine) flag. However, we know that we have to go to shore to organize a trip across the island to Lenakel to check in with the authorities. Once we were comfortable that the hook was set, we deployed our dinghy and went over to pick up Graeme and Rebecca for a trip to shore. From the anchorage there was no sign of Yasur, but there were at least two visible vents on the hillside overlooking the anchorage exhaling white smoke.
We landed the dinghy on the beach next to a path that we decided not to take and headed along the beach towards where we all thought the yacht club might be located. We found a path that took us into a small village where a few men were seemingly "hanging" around. We asked for information on where we would find the person who organizes the trips across the island for yachties. They explained the truck had gone across the island for the day, but they would let the driver know we needed a lift and that we should be at the yacht club at 0800. They then directed us to the yacht club, which incidentally was at the top of the path where we had parked the dinghy.
As we wound our way through the very lush center of the island we encountered children probably walking home for lunch and lots of dogs, pigs, cows, chickens and other animals just meandering around. Along the way we met Mariam who is a primary school teacher, one of the Chief's daughters and Stanley's sister. Stanley was apparently the man we were looking for. According to Mariam he is next in line to be chief, but he is also the man who organizes trips to Lenakel to check in and up to see the mighty volcano. She assured us she would let Stanley know we needed a ride the next day. At this point though we had not talked to him ourselves, we figured we had our bases covered by the multiple people who were now going to let him know of our arrival. We continued walking as a light mist was falling until we came upon the yacht club.
Come to find out and as these things seem to go, we were not surprised to find out The Port Resolution Yacht Club and Cabin was also run by no other than Stanley. The yacht club is a building has a dirt floor, a long table and chairs, a toilet sitting by the door waiting to be installed, two friendly kittens, flags and burgees that yachties have contributed hanging from the rafters all under one thatched roof. You can apparently eat there and buy a cold beer, but that must be only during certain unpublished hours, there was no one about. The cabins overlook the beautiful turquoise water. They are very rustic and the furniture consisted of two cots. There was a separate building with a toilet and shower, with a space for a second toilet, presumably the one hanging about in the yacht club. Satisfied we had accomplished organizing our trip across the island we headed back to the boats to do a few chores and catch a few zzzz's. We have been finding overnight passages quite exhausting, it is not enough time to get into any kind of routine and neither one of us slept well. While we were napping two women off of one of the yachts dropped by Listowell Lady and let them know that Stanley was expecting us at 0700 at the yacht club for our adventure across the island.
We arrived at 0700 to find another couple, Jim and Martha waiting in the yacht club for Stanley as well. Jim and Martha are on a motor launch and they are from Florida. We all hung out and chatted and waited for Stanley who was apparently on island time. He and our chariot arrived at 0800. Now, when I was a kid I loved the rare opportunities we got to ride in the back of my Dad's truck (or anyone else's for that matter). But, nothing could have prepared me and my tail/sit bones for four hours of sitting on a narrow plank with a very thin cushion (that would not stay under my butt) on an almost entirely unpaved and pothole laden road. We headed out giggling at the sight of six yachties and two local guys bouncing and hanging on for dear life in the back of the red pick-up truck that would take two hours one way to reach Lenakel. There was one paved section that may have been two miles long, talk about a short lived relief.
As we reached the center of the island we came around a corner and there was Yasur in all its glory. The foliage abruptly ended as we drove across barren earth of volcanic ash and rocks. We had to shelter our faces as we looked in awe at the smoke and ash spewing out of the top of this mighty dragon and sprinkling down on our heads as we passed by. Wow, we are going to get up close and friendly to that, the concept became real instantly. Tomorrow was going to be one of the most exciting days of my life.
We arrived in Lenakel and the first stop was the bank where we were hoping to use an ATM to get the Vatu (Vanuatu currency) to pay the eminent arrival fees. We all climbed out of the back of the truck with some groans and relief to be on solid ground. That ride was more difficult than most of our ocean passages and we still have to go back, ouch. Ah well, there was not an ATM in Lenakel. We converted the Australian dollars we had and lucky for us Rebecca and Graeme had enough money to make up for what we were lacking. Incidentally, we had tried to get Vatu before leaving New Caledonia and there was none to be had. Once we had the cash needed, we all piled back into the truck and it was reminiscent to climbing back on a horse, at least my tail bone told me so.
We drove a couple more miles to the Immigration office. Stanley apparently rounded up the Quarantine Officer or at least he introduced himself as representing the Quarantine department. As we sat on the front porch of the Immigration Office we were handed forms to fill out for Quarantine and Immigration and we then met with each officer one by one. The Quarantine Officer was very casual and did not seem at all worried about what we had on board. He gave us a form back, which Stanley later said was not valid because he did not stamp it. He didn't have any problem taking our 3000 VT (approx, $30.00 USD). Stanley said he would call ahead to Port Vila and inform them we had all gone through the proper channels. As an aside, this did not happen. Stanley turned out to be basically a kava stoned player, who was not a man of his word and focused mostly on how he could take advantage of his position of power. I was not impressed and I felt badly for the rest of the people in his village who clearly did not benefit from the money he brought into the island. Anyway, I digressed. We paid the Immigration Officer 2000 VT each and were granted a 30 day visa for Vanuatu, with the provision we could extend it if we would like to stay longer. It was approaching 11:30 (most offices and businesses close between 11:30 and 1:00) so we needed to dash off to the Customs office. Actually, the Customs Officer was attending the celebration for the new Education Center that was under way next to the Immigration office, so Stanley rounded him up and he met us at his office. We paid him another 2000 VT and received a sealed envelope from him that we are supposed to deliver to the Customs office in Port Vila.
With our official business completed lunch was our next order of business. We walked down the road a short way to a restaurant overlooking the water. The menu for the day was printed on a chalkboard outside the door, fish, rice and veg for 500 VT ($5.00). We sat down with several locals on a bench at a long table. The restaurant had a dirt floor, open sides and a cat that was winding its way under the table. Plates of food were brought out one or two at a time, there was no need to place your order, just sitting down indicated you wanted lunch. The fish was Lolo, it was nice and had a texture a bit like chicken. A pitcher of watery pink drink arrived and several glasses. It was truly a local food experience. Scott and Graeme cleaned their plates and once again I was not quite as adventurous as I constantly waved the flies off of my food.
After lunch we walked back to the bank so Rebecca could exchange more money, again for the benefit of all of us. We checked out the grocery store and Beck bought ten eggs and some tinned tomatoes. Scott and Graeme bought a couple of Tuskers, Vanuatu beer. The store was probably the only one in town and just had a smattering of tinned food, eggs, potatoes and onions. All of the prices were hand written on scraps of paper on the edges of the shelves. There were also a few house wares and other items, though it was in the same building it may have actually been a separate store, I wasn't quite sure. After lunch Stanley disappeared with the truck, so we waited outside of the store on a rock wall until he and the rest of the gang showed up. We all climbed back into the truck and I must say the thin wooden plank and cushion felt even thinner. On the way back it became an exercise of testing my upper body strength as I tried not to actually sit. We had collected a few more passengers, one guy from Canada who was on holiday for three months in Vanuatu and was headed to one of the cabins at the Port Resolution Yacht Club and several local guys. I think we got up to ten people in the back of the truck, bunches of bananas, kava and other items that were collected along the way, foot room became a commodity.
We stopped at a market on the way back, where Rebecca and Jim bought bunches of corn. Which Rebecca shared, but it turned out to be inedible no matter how long I cooked it. We arrived back at the Yacht Club at 1600 sore, tired, filthy (from Yasur) and totally excited about the plans we made with Stanley to visit Yasur in 24 hours. We paid Stanley our 2000 VT each for the truck ride of our lives and headed back out to our respective boats. Though we were filthy, we cleaned up a bit, but decided we would wait and use our precious water for a shower after we visit Yasur. What a day and we are definitely not in Kansas.
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