Sunday, August 14, 2005

Journal Entry – August 14, 2005 One Day on Tahaa (ta-ha-ah)

Author Pam:

After a good night’s sleep dancing on our mooring ball we woke up early to get started on another writing assignment. We have been invited by a journalist at Sail magazine to be featured as part of an article she is writing about sailors with disabilities. She sent a list of questions to answer via e-mail, we had not been able to connect on the telephone. It is always an interesting exercise to answer questions about the bigger picture of how the trip is going, challenges, successes, our motivation… It will be interesting to see how our thoughts and experiences change over time. The article will run in the November issue of Sail and we are very excited to be included in perhaps the first article of this nature and in such a well respected sailing journal.

We worked on our project until 1100 and then headed to shore with Stephanie and Warren to go explore the fourth Society Island we have the privilege to visit. As on most of the islands so far there is one road that leads around the perimeter of the island, the question is whether you turn right or left. We opted for left and started walking toward the head of the bay where a few sailboats were reportedly anchored. It was a beautiful sunny day, perfect for a Sunday stroll. We found the streets virtually empty, only an occasional car, scooter or bicycle. We walked by a large flat wooden box full of dried coconut, we finally got to see copra up close. At one time copra was the largest exported product from the islands, this apparently isn’t as true anymore. Copra is the source for coconut oil used in everything from cooking to soap. It smells a bit funky during the drying process.

As we approached the head of the bay we walked through the town. The bank is open Tuesday and Thursday from 0800 to 1000 and there was no access to an ATM on Sunday and perhaps there is only access during business hours. There was a very attractive church, a school and one small café. If there were other businesses they were not obvious. The street, waterfront and private homes were all immaculate, there was no trash and lots of flowers.

As our hike progressed so did our hunger. I wasn’t feeling very optimistic we would find a restaurant open on Sunday. In French Polynesia most everything is closed on Sunday or if it was open it closes before church services start. As we were walking by an inconspicuous building we heard the sound of dishes clinking and smelled garlic wafting from inside, it seemed promising or perhaps we would walk in on a family Sunday dinner. We walked alongside the building toward the water and discovered a very quaint patio café and it was open for lunch. The food was good, beautiful view and the service slow which was very relaxing.

We all probably felt like a nap, but there was still the hike back to the boats. On the way back we happened on a pearl farm that was open and poked our heads in. For sure if Scott and I had been out and about alone, we probably wouldn’t have discovered the restaurant or the pearl farm. We were invited in by a woman with an Australian accent who offered to give us a short pearl farming 101 lecture. It is a very complex and costly process to grow pearls involving many steps including surgery performed usually by a professional from Japan. When we arrived back to the boats Warren and Stephanie came over for a closer look and comparison of Tournesol to Mico Verde and a cold drink. We made a plan to buddy boat to Bora Bora the next morning and agreed on a 0730 departure. Scott and I spent the evening in full circle continuing to answer the questions for Sail and cooking pasta with clam sauce for dinner.

Tahaa is a beautiful little island well worth a visit. The craggy peaks combined with the lush vegetation make it another striking south pacific slice of paradise. There is a vanilla plantation on the other side of the island that offers tours, but we opted to keep moving and not pay a visit. Maybe next time.

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