Journal Entry – August 8, 2005 – Cheeseburger in Paradise

Author: Scott

This morning we were both a little groggy from lack of sleep. We both struggle with sleep on the first night of a passage after time at anchor. We can not complain about the wind. We sailed at 4 to 5 knots with a single reef in the main and 80% jib until we reached Huahine. I spent the day a little nervous because for some reason I remember the puddle jumpers in Mexico talking about sailing through passes and for some reason Huahine’s passes stuck out in my mind. There are two passes into the lagoon at Fare Village, the main southern pass and the northern pass. After examining our cruising guides and speaking with Starship on the radio, we decided to opt for the less traveled northern pass. When I visualized passes through reefs when I was back in Mexico, I pictured giant walls of coral with small clefts chiseled through to make a skinny opening, making transiting a pass like entering a walled city. What I have come to learn is that most passes are very unimpressive and yet still very threatening, with very low lying coral, often only visible by the presence of breaking waves. The reality of these passes is no doubt less ominous, but from a visually impaired person’s perspective they are far more menacing because they are less visually daunting. I would gladly take a fifty foot high wall of coral to thread my way past rather than the sneaky hidden reefs, lurking ready to tear the keel off Tournesol. Today’s trip into the Huahine lagoon turned out to be a little nail biting but fairly straightforward. On the land there were two white leading markers that I could see with a telescope from the bow. We also had assistance from Starship, Frank and Rachel met us in their dinghy as we entered the lagoon and led us over to where many of the boats were anchored.

I know we have expounded on the clear and beautiful water of the South Pacific quite a bit, but it seems to me as we travel to each new island we find water even more pristine than the last place, overtaking the rank of the most incredible water we have ever seen. Huahine is no exception, as we entered the lagoon there was a stark difference between the deep blue of the channel and the baby blue water of the lagoon. As we approached the lagoon we could see all of the cruising boats hovering with their anchors biting into the fringe of the lagoon, while the boats floated over the shallow blue water. I yelled to Frank and asked if it was too shallow to anchor and he said that it was shallow but would be fine, there is only a six inch tidal difference in the lagoon, so if we find an acceptable spot with a few feet to spare under the keel, we are home free. Our first attempt at anchoring left us with only about eight inches between the boat and the sandy bottom, so we gave it a second attempt and settled in eight feet of water, leaving two feet eight inches to spare. Plenty of room! Tournesol is now anchored in the shallowest water she has experienced since I have owned her.

As soon as the hook was down I took my usual plunge to check the anchor and marvel at the unbelievable water. I took a swim around the entire radius of our anchor looking for coral heads that could potentially injure Tournesol if we were to swing into them, but we were free and clear. Our next order of business was to clean up the boat and get settled so we would not be late for a very important event, HAPPY HOUR! Long before we actually got to Huahine, we had heard from other cruisers that Huahine has one of the best bars in the South Pacific and libations are half price between five and six each evening, this is huge in the land of six dollar beer.

Settled into Huahine, we jumped in the dinghy and zoomed over to the “Snack Bar” the famous happy hour spot. We were soon joined by Frank and Rachel from Starship. No sooner had we got down to some serious yarn spinning when a guy walks up to us and tells us that he is celebrating because he just got out of the hospital. Now we don’t have a clue who this guy is and Frank and Rachel are showing only vague recollection but we go with it and listen to his story. Apparently our new friend was hit while on a motorcycle by a car passing too close and got smacked upside the head with the passing cars side rearview mirror. He ended up staggering to the hospital, where he spent the night, and now he was back at the bar to anesthetize his injuries. The whole story sounded like a Jimmy Buffet song. Speaking of Jimmy, we also were told that this very bar was the place where JB wrote “That One Particular Harbor”. Now, I do take stores like this with a grain of salt, since I think I have eaten in at least three bars that are the home of the song “Cheeseburger in Paradise”. Speaking of cheeseburgers, guess what the “Snack Bar” specializes in? You probably guessed it, cheeseburgers, and not just any cheeseburger, but the best cheeseburger we have eaten in French Polynesia and it is only $6.00. What a place! We sat there with our toes in the sand, chowing down on cheeseburgers and perfect fries, savoring the Hinano, and watching the sun set over the “that one particular harbor”.

As we sat there enjoying the South Pacific evening we were introduced to another local character, one of Huahine’s founding mothers (so we were told). She had heard our tale, because she was definitely in the know. I got the feeling nothing happened in French Polynesia without our new friend having the skinny. We were given hugs of welcome and then she flitted off wearing her giant hat and sheik outfit.

When the time came to make our way home, we headed to the dock with Rachel and Frank. You have to remember that we had no problem with the dinghy on our inbound trip and absolutely flawless results with the beast in Moorea, but just when we were feeling a little confidence in the wicked weasel, no go Joe. We pulled and pulled and all we got was a tired arm. Eventually we gave in and Starship gave us a tow back to the boat. We went to bed happy for making another landfall but apprehensive of the newest dinghy dilemma.